After sanding the first layer of the bottom, the second layer, 1/2" plywood, was glued on. I marked and cut the pieces, and then drilled pilot holes every 8" or so. I used a roller to spread thickened epoxy over both surfaces. Then, I screwed it on using waxed drywall screws. After curing, I removed the screws, and then planed the edge around the chine.
The hull sides are two layers of 1/2" plywood. I made temporary supports to hold the plywood in place for marking. After cutting the plywood, I drilled pilot holes where the permanent frames and the chine logs and shear clamps were. I glued it using drywall screws.
The third layer of the bottom was 3/4" ply, making the bottom a full 2" thick. It was glued on after the first layer of side planking. after the edges were trimmed, the second layer of side planking was glued on. I then made a false stem, and carved it to shape. The slot for the off-centerboard was cut out also.
After filling all screw holes and sanding,the hull was sheathed with one layer of Xynole-Polyester cloth, availible from Defender Indestries. (Link below)
To apply the cloth, I layed it on the uncoated plywood, and then applied epoxy with a roller. I used just enough epoxy to soak the cloth. When that was still sticky, I rolled another coat of epoxy on. After it was fully cured, I sanded it and then used a trowel to spread epoxy thickened with talc. It was sanded again, using a long sanding board, and more thickened epoxy was trowelled on. Then more sanding.
After I got tired of sanding and filling,I marked the waterline, using my laser level, and painted it with ablative bottom paint. (much easier to do when the boat is upside down)
I will have to do more fairing on the topside after the hull is turned over.